Cultural Lesson #1: La Tavola di San Guiseppe

Growing up in a Sicilian-American family provided me with plenty of interesting cultural and ethnic perspectives. Of course, most of these perspectives are rooted in tradition, religion, and.....FOOD!!

Case in point: La Tavola di San Guiseppe. Or, in English: St. Joseph's Altar.

It had been a few years since I last observed this intriguing Sicilian tradition. I got the chance to this year and wanted to share this cultural experience with you.

Goda di (Enjoy)!!

The St. Joseph Altar is Sicilian in origin. During the Middle Ages, a terrible famine swept through Sicily. The people fervently prayed to St. Joseph, their patron saint, for an end to the death and starvation. They promised that they would prepare a feast in his honor if he would save them. Because of their petitions he answered them and the famine ended. As they had promised, they prepared a table with food they had harvested. After paying homage to St. Joseph, the food is distributed to less fortunate.

The Altar is set up in three tiers, representing the Holy Trinity. A statue of St. Joseph is placed on the top tier, surrounded by flowers, greenery, and fruit. No meat is prepared for the Altar because the Feast Day of St. Joseph falls during Lent. Breads, cakes and cookies, baked in symbolic Christian shapes are prepared for the altar. Pastries in the shape of chalices, crosses, doves, lambs, fish, Bibles, hearts, wreaths and palms adorn the tiers of the altar. Symbols of St. Joseph such as lilies, staffs, sandals, ladders, saws, hammers and nails are also included.

There is symbolism in other items on the altar as well. Bread crumbs represent the sawdust of St. Joseph, the carpenter. Twelve whole fish represent the apostles. Wine is symbolic of the Miracle at Cana. The Altar is a medium petition and thanksgiving. Petitions of the faithful are written on pieces of paper and placed in baskets on the altar. Photos of deceased relatives and friends may decorate the altar as well.

Another unique feature of the altar is the fava bean. In Sicily, favas were cattle fodder, but during the great famine people ate them to survive. They were fortunate to have favas to eat, hence the fava beans became known as lucky beans. Some believe that the pantry that contains favas will never be bare. The fava serves as a token on the altar as a reminder of God’s provisions, through the intercession of St. Joseph.

The custom of the Holy Family’s search for food and shelter is an integral part of the St. Joseph Altar celebration. Children are selected to represent Jesus, Mary, Joseph and the Saints. The ritual begins with St. Joseph knocking on three doors. At the first two doors, people inside ask, “Who is there?” The response is, “Jesus, Mary and Joseph.” “What do you want?” they ask. They respond, “We seek food and shelter.” They are told, “There is no room for you here.” When the Holy Family arrives at the third door, (where the altar is), St. Joseph says , “We seek food and shelter.” The joyful response is, “Welcome to this house! The table is set. The food is prepared. Come in and honor us with your presence!”

After going inside, the Holy Family and the Saints are treated to a meal that traditionally includes a taste of each item an the Altar. A family member, who serves the food, accompanies each of the Saints. The atmosphere during this part of the meal is quiet and reverent. After they have finished their traditional meal, everyone is then able to enjoy the feast as well.

What's on the menu? MANGIA!
pasta, souga, uova
(pasta, sauce, egg)
pasta malanese
(pasta, anchovies, fennel)
fagioli cassoeula
(green bean casserole)
fennochi fritte
(fried fennel patties)
insalata (salad)
pane (bread)
caffee (coffee) & te (tea)
cucidatti (fig cookies)
biscotti (plain ring cookies)
giulaine (seed cookies)
pinulate (haystacks)
checchia (garbanzo beans)

me & mio Nana